Natale in a Roma (Birth In the City of Rome)

Italians (Catholics) take seriously Natale, the birth of Jesus. (Photo taken inside Santa Maria del Popolo - all Catholic churches in Italy display a Nativity scene.) Thusly, there are quite a few traditional celebrations between December 6 and January 6. Family gathers together for the majority of the festivities, as most Italians assume friends will be with their family.

To kick things off, December 6, La Festa di San Nicola (Feast Day of St. Nicolas.) There’s not a lot of pomp and circumstance associated with this day, just a lot of feasting. Works for me!

On December 8, all of Italy takes a national holiday to celebrate L’Immacolate Concezione (Feast Day of the Immaculate Conception.) Schools and banks are closed, there’s no governmental work… Those who are Catholic, attend church, those in Rome may go to Piazza di Spagna to hear the Pope’s annual message, and everyone is at home, assembling their Nativity scene (presepe or presepio) while feasting on traditional dishes of their region with their family.

Piazza Navona is the sight of the grand Natale market, which is in full operational swing by Immaculate Conception. There are stalls filled with Nativity decorations, Befana stockings, and traditional Italian Natale treats – Torrone, Ciambella, Nociata and Croccante, which will bring the best behaved bambini to tears if treats aren’t purchased for immediate consumption!

There are also shops around Piazza Navona that during the year, sell religious artifacts, but during Natale, sell Nativity scenes. The most desired are scenes carved from wood and hand painted in Italy.

We went to Sala de Bramante, behind and under Santa Maria del Popolo, to view a very large display (over 100) of Nativity scenes from all over the world. Most were made of traditional materials (wood, clay, glass and metal), but some were made with recycled materials, which was fun to see -and- one was made entirely of rice and pasta! They ranged in size from full size (carved wood from Germany) to wee tiny, miniscule scenes to view with a magnifying glass (porcelain from Campania, Italy). My favorite was a raku ceramic set from Croatia. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to sneak a photo as security was tight!

In the crypt of Santi Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso, there is a wonderful display of miniature holiday scenes made by artists from all over Italy. They were all quite small, with intricate details – little handmade woodworking tools in the wood workers workshop, tiny copper pots with tiny wooden spoons in the tiled kitchen, and wee stalls of food in the itty-bitty markets. I stole a few pictures on my iPhone (over two years old, generation one, but works for me!), so please excuse the quality.

La Vigilia (The Vigil - Christmas Eve), December 24, brings the very traditional Festa dei Sette Pesci (Feast of Seven Fishes.) Italians fast by not consuming red meat. A feast of at least seven seafood/fish dishes doesn't exactly sound like a fast to me. When in Rome... Each region serves their own traditional seafood dishes. Typical dishes found in Rome are octopus salad with oranges, olives and fennel; pasta with a tuna and tomato sauce; deep fried calamari; shrimp risotto; baccalà; mussels stuffed with breadcrumbs and broiled; baked lobster; fried smelts; and baked fish encased in a salt crust. I won’t be preparing the popular eel dish: Capitone. A large, live female eel is brought home, skinned, then fried, or grilled, or baked. Not gonna happen by my hands.

In Rome, at sunset, a cannon at Castel Sant’Angelo will be fired to announce Vigilia di Natale (Vigil of Birth [Christmas]) Catholic families may attend a midnight mass celebration, if in Rome many go to Piazza San Pietro to hear the Pope’s annual message. We haven’t decided where we’ll be just yet - church or the Piazza. I'm afraid I won't be able to walk after my fast!

Christmas Day, December 25, is another feast day, however, families eat red meat after Christmas Eve's fast of all fish and seafood. There isn’t an exchange of gifts on this day. At 12:00 noon, the Pope appears in Piazza San Pietro to bless the crowd. If a Catholic family didn't go to church Christmas Eve, they'll go on Christmas Day. Generally, it’s a quiet day of reflection with one’s family. As if you haven’t spent enough time with them by now…

December 26, La Festa di Santo Stefano (Feast Day of St. Stephen’s) marks the arrival of the Three Wise Men and the announcement of the birth of Jesus. Yet, another feast day, with the family, no dietary restrictions, and not a lot of pomp and circumstance.

On December 31, family and friends gather together to celebrate La Festa di San Silvestro (Feast Day of St. Sylvester), also known as New Years Eve. Lentil dishes are eaten to symbolize money and good fortune for the coming year. Many will play Tombola, which is similar to Bingo, and many will dance. Fireworks are displayed in every town and many piazzas will hold bonfires. We won’t be in Rome, but we’ve heard Piazza del Popolo is where the party is at!

January 1, Il Capodanno (New Year’s Day), in Rome is celebrated with a grand parade to Piazza San Pietro, to receive the Pope’s New Year’s Day blessing. Yes, another quiet feast day with the family, no dietary requirements…

Finally… we arrive at January 6, La Festa dell’Epifania (The Epiphany). This is the oldest of the Christmas feasts and is also known as Three Kings Day. Catholic families go to church on this day. Families who can stand to be with one another after all of these feasts and festivities will gather for a gift exchange.

January 6 is also known as La Befana. It is customary in Italy for children to receive candy and gifts in their stockings from Befana, the old woman (who looks like a witch – with a broomstick and everything!) The story goes: Befana was the best housekeeper in her village. When the Three Wise Men stopped to ask her if she knew where baby Jesus was, she said no, however, they were welcome to stay at her home to refresh for their journey ahead. The next morning, the Three Wise Men asked Befana to join them. She declined (I’m guessing because they made such a big mess of her clean home! Have you ever heard of a clean camel? Come on…) Later that evening, she changed her mind and tried to find the Wise Men and baby Jesus, but couldn’t. So to this day, Befana flies all over on her broom, searching for baby Jesus. She leaves treats for all of the children, in case they are baby Jesus.

Mira, my wonderful Italian language instructor, rolled her eyes and made some Italian hand gestures when talking about all of the feast days with the family. She said everyone is good and sick of one another by the time Epiphany rolls around.

January 7, the Nativity scene’s are packed up and put away, all the kids go back to school and the winter sales begin. Sounds like an official Feast Day to me!